Rome
The Colosseum and its surroundings
Go in at the first hour. By afternoon the stones of the Forum are hot and crowded. Close the evening in Trastevere, away from the ancient quarter.
Europe
Long tables, short distances, and the pleasure of slowing down together.
Italy is the easiest home a group trip can have, and the plan that comes apart the fastest. You each arrive with a list: the Colosseum, a bridge, a gondola. The list is fine. Set the pace wrong and the city turns into a queue.
This guide was not written so you can count three cities as seen. On a first visit, give Rome two full days, Florence a day and a half, and Venice a single day that starts early. Whatever time remains belongs to getting lost in the neighborhood you chose.
July and August run hot in the south, and the coast is crowded. Spring and autumn are more generous to walking and to long dinners.
Rome
Go in at the first hour. By afternoon the stones of the Forum are hot and crowded. Close the evening in Trastevere, away from the ancient quarter.
Rome
The fountain is a photograph. The Rome that stays with you is the gelato counter and the small squares two streets behind it. Move the group on from the fountain.
Venice
The bridge fills by noon. The two hours after sunrise are the stretch when the canal still looks like a city.
Florence
If you want to climb the dome, book the ticket days ahead. If you skip the climb, the riverbank and Oltrarno tell the same city in a quieter voice.
Leave the idea of a new district every day. Trastevere in Rome, Oltrarno in Florence, and Dorsoduro in Venice can each hold an afternoon.
Rome to Florence takes about an hour and a half. A morning train leaves the afternoon for walking in the city you have just reached.
If someone among you is tired of museums, let it go. A courtyard in Florence, or a church courtyard in Rome, still belongs to the day.
With five days, leave Cinque Terre off the list. It wants two days of its own. The walk from Manarola to Vernazza refuses to be rushed.
Rome’s pasta of cheese and black pepper. A tourist menu that promises a bit of everything is less honest than a small osteria with four or five pastas.
In Venice, keep the evening from depending on a single restaurant. Small bites and a glass at the bar, beside the canal, make the better rhythm.
In Florence a thick-cut steak is enough for two. A good evening in Italy is a table that runs long, more than it is one famous plate.
Walking is the cleanest plan inside a city. Between cities, the high-speed train tires you less than a car.
Three hotels in three cities means carrying the suitcase every day. Think again about any stop under two nights.
Monti and Trastevere make the walk home at night easy. Around Termini the rooms look cheaper, and the nights feel heavier.
Rooms at the foot of the Duomo have the view and the noise. Between Santa Croce and the river, you sleep better.
Rooms pressed against San Marco are expensive and crowded. Dorsoduro and Cannaregio keep more of the morning quiet.
Per person, for a mid-range room and a day of spending. Museum days and high-speed train tickets push the range up. A mid-range day: 110–170 €.
Budget
A shared apartment, a slice eaten standing at lunch, one good plate at night. Keep museum days scarce.
Comfortable
A small hotel near the center, one museum or one train a day, and dinner sitting down.
Refined
A good address, tables you have booked, and room to change a high-speed ticket.
7 days · First-time groups of 2–6
4 days · Anyone who would rather keep the same suitcase