Tokyo
Shibuya and the side streets
Cross the scramble once. Give the real time to one street further in, among the record shops and the small bars.
Asia
A city that runs on time, and the quiet that comes with an early start.
Japan tires you less than you expect. What tires you is packing every neighborhood into the same day. In Tokyo, one neighborhood is a day. In Kyoto, a temple path walked before the crowd arrives is a different city.
Traveling as a group turns on opening time. Many places start to fill at ten. Leave at seven and you come back as if you had walked the same route in another country.
Cherry-blossom week is the loveliest time and the most expensive. November’s red leaves are spoken of less, and the walking can feel more open.
Tokyo
Cross the scramble once. Give the real time to one street further in, among the record shops and the small bars.
Tokyo
In cherry-blossom week, go early. By afternoon the bridges turn into a queue for photographs.
Kyoto
The lanes around Yasaka are the frame everyone describes in the late afternoon. Before eight in the morning, the same street is almost empty.
The first torii gates at Fushimi Inari can be walked before eight. At noon the same stairs are a different sport.
Keep lunch from depending on a restaurant every day. An onigiri from the shop is cheap, and it keeps you moving.
Shimokitazawa or Yanaka will give you a better conversation than Shibuya. Give one whole day to a single district.
One ryokan night in Kyoto can be the luxury you share. Keep it to a single night.
A lunch queue in Tokyo is normal. Splitting the group tires you less than waiting for a table for eight.
A conveyor belt is fun, and it is enough for the first night. Save the second sushi night for seats at the counter, and order small.
A long kaiseki in Kyoto is beautiful and expensive. The lunch set is the same kitchen in a calmer mood.
Getting around the city is surprisingly straightforward. The real decision is whether a nationwide rail pass earns its place on this route.
Rooms in Tokyo are small. Expect that, and choose the address for the neighborhood you want.
Shinjuku sits in the middle of the scramble. Ueno and Yanaka fall quiet sooner. Stay in Shibuya and you are buying the night as well.
Near the station, you serve the train. Near Gion, you serve the evening. Halfway between the two, the walk grows longer.
A convenience-store lunch brings the budget down. A ryokan night, and lodging in cherry-blossom week, push it up. A mid-range day: 120–190 €.
Budget
A business hotel, convenience-store lunches, one long train. Dinner, taking turns, somewhere good.
Comfortable
A good location, one sit-down meal a day, an IC card, and a taxi now and then.
Refined
One ryokan night, a reserved seat at the counter, and the cherry-blossom difference in the rate.
8 days · A first trip to Japan, 2–5 people
5 days · One suitcase, one hotel